Village-hopping the sierras of the Axarquía: The Complete Traverse

You will be greeted on arrival at your accommodation in Nerja and we’ll have a briefing of the week ahead on the hotel’s pool terrace. This is also a good time to ask any final niggling questions in preparation for the start of the trek the following day.

We kick things off with a lovely walk out of Nerja and an opportunity to admire some very interesting 19th century monuments and relics in the countryside on the way to the trailhead. Today’s itinerary involves crossing three beautiful valleys – the 5 kilometre long Barranco de la Coladilla gorge, the Río Chillar and the Río Higuerón. Although we walk through thick pine forest for most of the route, there are many vantage points along the way offering wonderful views of each valley and beyond. On the approach to Frigiliana, the vegetation thins out and you will appreciate some impressive mountain scenery of the precipitous cliffs and gorges of Almendrón (1515) and El Sol (1549), and the mountain peaks of Navachica (1832m) and El Cielo (1508m).
Rating: moderate       Distance: 15 km       Time: 5 hrs       Acc. ↑: 765 m       Acc. ↓: 600m

We set off from Frigiliana on a leisurely stroll along the intricate network of backroads, country lanes and forest trails of the pretty Frigiliana countryside while constantly in the shadow of the infamous El Fuerte massif looming 1000m directly above us. This is not necessarily impressive mountain scenery, however, the walk through the countryside, with its many olive groves, mango and citrus orchards, farmsteads and allotments all along the route and dotting the hillsides in the distance, makes for very pleasant walking. After circumnavigating El Fuerte, we continue up an adjacent valley before arriving at the quaint and historic mountain hamlet of the lost village of El Acebuchal. What makes this little hamlet so interesting and special is its amazing transformation despite its controversial history.
Rating: easy       Distance: 15 km       Time: 4.5 hrs       Acc. ↑: 225 m       Acc. ↓: 75m

This is when things really start to get interesting. We catch an old trade route out of the hamlet to enter the scenic and immense mountain basin of the Paraje del Daire. The area is covered in forests of Maritime Pine and the occasional chestnut tree. Due to its large catchment area, crossing streams and tributaries becomes a frequent affair. Ascending a prominent ridge, we eventually rise to 1100 metres where we will join another historic trade route of the Camino del Puerto de Cómpeta (Path of the Cómpeta Pass). From this point on, you descend almost continuously to Cómpeta while following in the footsteps of the legendary muleteers who for centuries plied this dangerous mountain route. The many ruins of once profitable roadside inns, each with their own fascinating history, litter the sides of the narrow path – evidence of a roaring trade servicing not only the muleteers, but also the many bandits, outlaws and opportunists who lurked in waiting.
Rating: moderate       Distance: 18 km       Time: 7 hrs       Acc. ↑: 400m       Acc. ↓: 900m

Today's itinerary literally breaks the mold on many fronts as you are taken on a journey of pure sensorial enlightenment for an insight into the exquisite world of haute cuisine and fine Málaga wines. Málaga was once in the vanguard of viticulture and wine making in the world during the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries. Although it is not now so, it is nevertheless experiencing a silent but incredible revival producing some exceptional wines from some truly dedicated and passionate vineyards.

Set within a labyrinth of valleys and steep intertwining hillsides typical of this area, there is a little bodega that creates sheer magic with grapes. You will be led on a full guided tour of the vineyard and its facilities, including a short bout outside for an introduction to all aspects of grape cultivation and local conditions. After the main tour of the facilities, you will be invited to relax in the wine salon for an aperitif and to enjoy various guided and detailed wine tastings of four of the bodega's exquisite wines. Then for the main event, prepare yourself for a wine tasting experience like no other: an impressive gastronomic extravaganza in the form of a wine-centric lunch designed specially to pair perfectly with yet more delicious wines in order to highlight their attributes; and as always, accompanied by expert and attentive tutelage so that you understand all of the subtle complexities and vagaries of the moment. In case you didn't know, the wines that you will have the pleasure of enjoying can be found in dozens of Michelin starred restaurants in more than 10 countries across Europe and America as this little bodega continues to slowly and masterfully make an international name for itself.

You are in for a very pleasant and interesting change to the usual itinerary as you put true meaning to the term “village-hopping”. This leg of the trek takes us to four peculiar villages: Canillas de Albaida, Salares, Sedella and Canillas de Aceituno. They are rich in cultural, historical, architectonic, rural and natural elements and details that give this leg the resounding vote for being the most interesting, engaging and feature rich section of the GR-249 in the Natural Park. You will be delighted to cross the many rivers that cascade down the steep slopes in this part of the sierra, and walking over some spectacular bridges of Roman and Arab origin. We will take some time from the itinerary to quickly visit various watchtowers from whose strategic locations you will appreciate stunning views of the surrounding mountains and the whitewashed villages clinging to the mountainsides in the distance. There are pretty terraced orchards around Canillas de Albaida, oak forests near the village of Salares, and pine woods close to Sedella. The alternating succession of rivers and woods, villages and historical bridges, not to mention scenic mountain landscapes, all combine to create one of the most picturesque and alluring legs of the GR-249.
Rating: moderate       Distance: 25 km       Time: 8.5 hrs       Acc. ↑: 1,070 m       Acc. ↓: 1,040 m

The final stage of our trek marks a significant transition in the landscape and vegetation. Departing from the steep, hilly, terraced mountainsides dominated by vineyards and orchards, you begin to discover a much gentler countryside of undulating upland meadows, pastures and never-ending olive groves. On this final leg, disappointing as it may seem, there is just one intermediary village on the route: Alcaucín. Nevertheless, the views on the way to Alcaucín are simply fabulous. The excitement begins with a descent to the Garganta de los Tajos Lisos (Gorge of the Smooth Cliffs) and then past the Cueva de la Fájara with its naturally upwelling aquifer. You ascend and descend through an array of hills and valleys via several water courses. The hillsides are cloaked in grape vines, cane, pomegranate, olive, orange, almond and carob trees, all in view of the many dainty cortijos and farmsteads scattered across the cultivated countryside and throughout the pine woods.

With Alcaucín behind you, this is where the landscape begins to change in form and character. Ancient footpaths abound in the Axarquia, and you will be following yet more of these ancient motorways of Arab engineering and design. On the way to Periana, there are absolutely breathtaking views of Pantano de la Viñuela (Lake Viñuela), the Puerto del Boquete de Zafarraya (Pass of the Zafaraya Gap), the village of Comares, and a host of isolated hamlets and farmsteads scattered amongst the orchards and olive groves. On your approach to Periana, the path will connect with the old train line of the Málaga – Ventas de Zafarraya service that was in operation between 1922 and 1968.
Rating: moderate       Distance: 17 km       Time: 5.5 hrs       Acc. ↑: 620m       Acc. ↓: 690m

Goodbyes and farewells. You will be collected from your accommodation and taken to Málaga airport for your return flight home.

The Hotel Nerja Club & Spa is located just on the leafy edge of town in one of the quietest areas of Nerja, and has outdoor and indoor pools, spa and gymnasium. Each of the hotel's 102 rooms has an en-suite bathroom, air conditioning, heating, overhead music, satellite TV and telephone, with most having a private terrace. During your stay you will be able to enjoy the pool, solarium and cafeteria with frequent live music. Enjoy buffet style breakfast and dinner with a wide range of international cuisine, fresh salads and desserts. The hotel has a great team of helpful and friendly staff who will make your stay as comfortable and pleasant as possible.
Website: www.hotelnerjaclub.com

The Hotel Villa Frigiliana is perfectly positioned in the centre of the award-winning village of Frigiliana, between the old historic Moorish quarter and the "new town". The hotel provides an excellent service and has 35 rooms with countryside and mountain views. All of the rooms are bright and comfortable with a smart, classic Spanish style decoration. They all have air conditioning, satellite TV, safe, and bathroom with hair dryer. There is also breakfast room service at extra cost.
Website: www.hotelvillafrigiliana.com

The quaint and isolated hamlet of El Acebuchal was abandoned for decades after the Spanish civil war. In 1998, the village underwent restoration work championed by one of its original inhabitants. As a result of the careful and meticulous restoration work carried out, the hamlet has recovered all of its original features and authentic character, and provides seclusion, quiet and a unique experience in a mountain environment. El Acebuchal offers mountain cottages in a typical Andalucían country style, with rustic interior decoration and furnishings. All cottages are fully equipped with washing machine, oven, microwave, vitro-ceramic hob and fireplace in the sitting room, hot water shower, television and barbecue on the terrace, shared outdoor swimming pool and large garden area. Warning: the food served in this recondite hamlet is without doubt, second to none. It will literally blow your socks and boots off!
Website: http://www.elacebuchal.es

Competa is a bustling whitewashed village high up in the Axarquían hills, with brilliant views across the foothills of the Axarquía and superb views of the Mediterranean sea. The Hotel Balcón de Cómpeta is the largest and most fully equipped hotel in town and offers a wide range of services. It lies at the half-way point on our trek and is therefore the perfect place to spend a comfortable and well-deserved rest day. The hotel offers a choice of fully equipped, cozy bungalows set in its gardens; or formal rooms in the main building. Both types of accommodation are fitted with all modern conveniences: free Wi-Fi, king-size bed, TV, air conditioning, heating, safe, telephone, en suite bathroom with bath and shower (bungalows shower only), and a balcony overlooking the pool and countryside with views of the Mediterranean sea. There is also a tennis court, restaurant, cafeteria and an outdoor bar in the gardens. The food is of Spanish and international flavour and is very good.

Website: http://hotel-competa-hotelblue.webs3.mirai.es/

In the domains of meteorology and mountaineering, the immutable laws of nature determine that the higher one goes, the thinner the air. In the case of Canillas de Aceituno (524 m), a peculiar but endearing thing happens: in this rather small and out-of-the-way village, any prospect for the "luxury" accommodation that we will have by now become so acclimatised to over the previous five nights, suddenly and dramatically thins to scant nonexistence. However, you need not despair; for the charm, friendliness and hospitality of this village is more viscous and profuse than you would expect. They just know how to pile it on in these parts! You will be lodged in comfortable, self-catering styled accommodation in village apartments, with breakfast and dinner served just round the corner in a friendly family-run restaurant. This is where good simple Spanish food, mountain specialities and village hospitality prevail. Oh! And Canillas is renowned for the best oven-roasted kid for miles around. You will be very sad to leave.

For your last night, comfort and relaxation is the order of the day. You will be put up in an elegantly reformed señorial cortijo (farmhouse) set within the panorama of undulating olive groves of beautiful, rural Periana. Enjoy your evening meal and breakfast on the outdoor terrace surrounded by pretty gardens and breathtaking landscapes. The restaurant freshly prepares its dishes from organic, home-grown and local seasonal produce to offer a variety of tasty Mediterranean and Spanish regional dishes. Your final night and "free morning" spent relaxing amidst the birdsong of the countryside will be the perfect finish to an exciting week.  The views from the cortijo are a mix of lake and mountain views. There is an extensive range of activities on site, such as mini-golf, table tennis, boules, darts, and table football.
More info: http://www.cantueso.net